Article for Guardian travel competition (July 2006):
"Crikey" said my little brother, as he turned his head, his eyes staying fixed on the road-sign as our trusty vehicle sped past it. "Ausfahrt must be a big place. That's the fourth exit we've passed for it."
We had not been long across the German border yet he was already proving that the German word for "EXIT" had slipped from his GCSE vocabulary. He had, however, replaced such knowledge with a cunning knack for dreaming up the most important necessity for any World Cup: a World Cup costume.
Having secured tickets for the second round match in Stuttgart, my brother, two friends and myself set out across the continent with high hopes of watching England v Germany but settled for England v Ecuador after a dangerous flirtation with the prospect of Sweden v Ecuador. We were to grace the Fatherland for one week only and therefore World Cup drinking costumes were top of our list of pre-road-trip things to organise. We were English fans after all and had a reputation to live up to.
Suggestion number one from my inspired brother was Darth Vader. Quizzical emails were exchanged between us as to the connection with football and/or England until he revealed what he intended to print on Darth's cape: "the Empire Strikes Back". Amidst much laughter, and with some regret, it was decided that this stroke of genius was probably too close to the bone and another master plan was called for. He obliged.
"The Hoff is an England Fan" read the t-shirt. From under a 70s style, black, curly, wig, behind oversized aviators, sporting short red shorts, flip flops and with a rescue buoy in hand, strategically rested on one shoulder for the cameras, the four of us reintroduced the Hoff to the Germans.
The man who claims to have reunified Germany (his song "Crazy for you" was seized upon as an anthem at the time the Berlin Wall came down) and who graced our screens for years as Michael Knight and Mitch Buchanan in Knight Rider and Baywatch respectively, was back in town.
"Hans Hoff England's Cup" read the back of the t-shirt for any in doubt as to our true origins.
The Germans, to our unjustified surprise, welcomed the English (and the Hoff) into their homeland and organised a cracker of a tournament.
Naturally the efficiency of their organisation was at an optimum, but there was an unprecedented sprinkling of understanding and common sense as to the requirements and desires of the travelling fans that was the making of this World Cup. From extra fan zones with giant screens to accommodate the thousands who travelled without tickets, to requiring deposits for beer glasses, therefore minimalising litter and missiles, the Germans were one step ahead.
And for any locals lacking a sense of humour, or bemoaning the fact that both England and Germany crashed out ahead of their much vaunted meeting in the final, the reply was simple. "Hey, don't hassle the Hoff".
22 November 2006
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